Frequently Asked Questions

What film formats do you process?

We process 35mm, 120/220/620 medium format, 110, 127/828, APS, disposable camera film, and vintage formats like 117 and 126.

What processing options are available?

Depending on the format, we offer C-41 color, Black & White, E-6 slide, ECN-2, and C-22 cross-processing.

How do I send you my film?

Every film processing order includes a pre-paid USPS mailing label with a tracking number, so there's no extra cost or guesswork in getting your film to us.

Do I get my negatives back?

Yes. Every order includes your processed negatives, mailed back to you with a trackable return label at no extra cost. If you don't want them back, please let us know on your order.

Can I add scans or prints to my order?

Yes — we scan and print too! See your product page for options.

Explain scanning like I'm new to this?

Scanning options vary a little depending on your film size. For 35mm and 120 we use a  Nortisu HS-1800 lab scanner and we offer two resolutions (file sizes) and two file formats.

  • 3130x2075 6.5MP JPG "HighRes"
  • 6774x4492 30MP JPG "SuperScan"
  • 6774x4492 30MP TIFF "ProScan"

Our standard is HighRes, and you probably wonder why we call it that if it is our entry level scan. Most labs offer a lower resolution than this as THEIR standard, but anything lower than this makes it tough to get good quality prints. We don't want you to get your files and regret not getting a better quality. We want you to be satisfied with what you received, so we eliminated the "basic" scan. 

The next step up is the SuperScan, which is 4x the size. This is great if you know you are going to want to print your files or do some light editing etc.

The ProScan is the same resolution as the SuperScan, but is captured as a TIFF file which doesn't have compression. JPG is a compressed file format which makes for smaller file sizes, but you lose some detail, especially in gradients. If you plan on editing your files in Photoshop of Lightroom and building your "look", you will want TIFF files. 

For all other formats we camera scan your film, one frame at a time. This provides excellent results, but is much more time consuming.

About C-22 Processing

C-22 was a type of chemical process used for color films until the early 70s. It’s since been replaced by the current standard C-41, which is safer and better on the environment. Here at Old School Photo Lab, we process all of these old films into a black and white negative (even old C-41). As the quality of the films vary greatly depending on age and storage, we recommend ordering Develop Only, or Scans Only at first, then ordering prints if the images are worth printing to you. The quality of the negatives can range from good to very poor to nonexistent, it is important to be aware of this when ordering.

What effects the quality of the  images I can expect?
It varies! Storage conditions like humidity, heat and other factors can affect the film over long periods of time. Some old films look good, sometimes it’s all fogged to nothing.

Can I get color images out of my old C-22 film?
No, we can not get you color images from these films.  The chemistry to make color photos from this film have long since been discontinued. We process all C-22 and old C-41 into a black and white negative.

 

Sometimes film might not look like you expect after processing. Here's a breakdown of common problems and their explanations:

Light Fog

Probably the most common problem we see on film. This happens either when the camera's light seals aren't totally sealed, or if the camera was opened before the film was rewound.


Heat/ Age Fog

Film is a perishable. As it ages or gets baked it starts to break down, lose sensitivity and fog. Some people exploit this look for artistic purposes. This can be prevented by refrigerating your film or by making sure it's stored in a cool dry place (ie. NOT your car). Film has an expiration date for a reason.  Black and white film is the least susceptible to these effects...slide film is the most susceptible. 

Misloaded Camera 

Another very common issue, mostly with older SLRs, but can happen to anyone. This happens when the film leader isn't totally caught on the uptake spool. As you advance, the film doesnt get pulled out of the can, and you end up with an unexposed roll of film, with maybe one VERY fogged frame at the beginning. 

Rewound Backwards

Another common issue. This happens when the film is rewound the wrong way. Most cameras have an arrow that points the direction you should rewind. Another common cause is a mis-loaded camera. As you rewind a roll that was never pulled out of the can, you may think there isn't enough tension, so you rewind the other way. This often results in a torn roll of film as well. The effect is pressure-marks.. seen as dark vertical striations on the parts of the film that were 'bruised'. 

Old Slide (e-6) Film

Slide film doesnt age very well at all. Even a year or to passed expiration and it may be completely ruined. Usually these films will have a strong color cast, lower density and higher grain. Sometimes these rolls are entirely blank, devoid of all edge markings as well. When in doubt of the film's age, we suggest to try cross processing slide film.